NO.097
This project offers a contemporary interpretation of rainbow setting. A continuous gradient of natural gemstones is framed by black DLC surfaces, creating a balanced composition.
The Owner’s Vision
Owned and worn by a couple, this watch became the foundation for a shared project. Together, we explored a contemporary interpretation of rainbow setting, using black DLC surfaces to frame the gemstones and strengthen the overall composition.
The Dialogue of Crafts
This project brings together watchmakers, jewelers, gem setters, and gemologists, each contributing their expertise from the earliest design stages to the final assembly. Its technical complexity demanded close collaboration throughout every stage, resulting in a precise piece rooted in Swiss artisanal expertise.
Gemstone Composition
Natural gemstones sourced through ethical supply chains were selected for their color, clarity, and consistency. Precision cut and calibrated to within 0.01 mm, they form a continuous chromatic gradient across the dial and bezel. The dial carries 230 gemstones totaling 6.8 carats, complemented by 46 on the bezel totaling 3.4 carats.
The Setting Process
The full setting was carried out by a master gem setter over nearly 120 hours of bench work. Each gemstone was individually placed within micrometric tolerances, with seat depth and pressure adjusted according to the varying hardness of sapphires, tsavorites, rubies, and tourmalines. Every stone contributes to the continuity of the gradient while ensuring the long-term stability of the setting.
Black DLC treatment
The entire case was coated in diamond like carbon (DLC). This ultra thin carbon layer was applied in a vacuum at controlled temperatures between 200 and 300°C, producing a deep black finish with excellent resistance to wear. The dark surface creates a strong contrast that allows the chromatic composition to stand out.
- Base watch Stainless steel watch, provided by its owner
- Case & size40 mm, black DLC,
hand restored finish - Dial Hand-set, 230 stones, totaling 6.8 carats
- HandsHand-painted black, without SLN
- BezelHand-set, 46 stones, totaling 3.4 carats
- Bracelet Stainless steel, black DLC
- Gemstones Sapphires, tsavorites, rubies, tourmalines
- Gem-setting120 hours at the bench,
calibrated to 0.01 mm - Indicative budgetCHF 135,000 to 160,000
(APPROX. USD 170,000 to 200,000) - Typical lead time5 to 6 months
from design approval to delivery
Every project starts from a watch you already own. These figures reflect commissions of a comparable scope, your final quote depends on your piece and the work involved.
Your project
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Submit your requestFully Reversible
Most customizations are reversible. For nonreversible work, a new component can be manufactured at additional cost.
Swiss Made
Every stage, from preparation to final assembly, was carried out by hand in our Swiss workshops.
Alter Warranty
Customization affects the original warranty. Alter provides an independent warranty for its work and a certificate of authenticity with each piece.
Independent Studio
Each creation is carried out on the client's own watch, in complete autonomy. Alter is not affiliated with any watch brand or manufacturer.