NO.097
This project reimagines an iconic silhouette through a dialogue between color and shadow. The dial and bezel are entirely set with a rainbow of carefully selected stones that form a precise gradient, elevated by a black DLC case that sharpens the contrast. The result is a combination of contemporary design, artisanal techniques and jewellery aesthetics.
The Owner’s Vision
The owner came to Alter with the desire to reimagine a watch as a modern piece of jewelry. Shared by both him and his wife, this model became the foundation for a project they could wear together. They had long admired the precision of rainbow setting. Working closely with the couple, our team developed a composition balancing restraint and exuberance, using black as a frame for color.
The Dialogue of Crafts
This project unites contemporary design, horological tradition, and jewelry aesthetics. Watchmakers, jewelers, gem setters, and gemologists worked together closely, each contributing their expertise to the project. Operating within strict tolerances, they shaped a coherent and technically balanced piece rooted in Swiss artisanal expertise.
The first step was to dismantle the watch completely and service the movement. As shown in the images above, the dial and bezel were specially manufactured to accommodate the gemstone setting. The case and bracelet were then restored and hand refined to create a uniform base for the black DLC coating.
Gemstone Composition
Natural gemstones sourced through ethical supply chains were selected for their color, clarity, and consistency. Stones were precision cut and calibrated to watchmaking tolerances of 0.01 mm to create a continuous chromatic gradient. The dial is set with 230 gemstones totaling 6.8 carats, complemented by 46 gemstones on the bezel totaling 3.4 carats. Each stone was hand set using traditional pavé setting techniques to create a seamless transition of color across the watch.
The Setting Process
The full setting was carried out by a master gem setter over nearly 120 hours of bench work. Each gemstone was individually placed within micrometric tolerances, with seat depth and pressure adjusted according to the varying hardness of sapphires, tsavorites, rubies, and tourmalines. The dial carries 230 gemstones and the bezel 46 more, all aligned to preserve the continuity of the gradient across the watch.
Black DLC treatment
Black DLC treatment The entire case was coated in diamond like carbon (DLC). This ultra thin layer of carbon was applied in a vacuum at controlled temperatures between 200 and 300°C. The process produces a deep, uniform black finish while providing high resistance to wear. Light is absorbed by brushed surfaces and reflected by polished ones. This dark surface provides a contrasting backdrop that allows the chromatic composition to stand out clearly.
- Base watch Stainless steel watch, provided by its owner
- Case and style40 mm, hand-refinished, black DLC
- Dial Hand-set, 230 stones, totaling 6.8 carats
- HandsHand-painted black, without SLN
- BezelHand-set, 46 stones, totaling 3.4 carats
- Bracelet Stainless steel, black DLC
- Gemstones Sapphires, tsavorites, rubies, tourmalines
- Gem-setting120 hours at the bench,
calibrated to 0.01 mm - INDICATIVE BUDGETCHF 135.000 TO 160.000
(APPROX. USD 170.00 TO 200.000) - TYPICAL TIMELINE5 TO 6 MONTHS
FROM DESIGN APPROVAL TO DELIVERY
Every project starts from a watch you already own. These figures reflect commissions of a comparable scope, your final quote depends on your piece and the work involved.
Your project
Your Watch, Reimagined
Every Alter creation starts with a watch provided by its owner. Share your ideas with our team to explore the possibilities for your own project.
Submit your requestFully Reversible
All customizations are fully reversible, including the DLC treatment.
The watch can be restored to its original configuration at any time.Swiss Made
The project was created through a mix of digital renders and high-resolution photographs. All work was carried out in our Swiss workshops.
Alter Warranty
Since these modifications may affect the brand warranty, Alter provides its own. Each piece is accompanied by a certificate of authenticity.
Independent Studio
Each creation is carried out on the client's own watch, in complete autonomy. Alter is not affiliated with any watch brand or manufacturer.