Project 011
This project reimagines an iconic silhouette through a dialogue between color and shadow. The dial and bezel are entirely set with a rainbow of carefully selected stones that form a precise gradient, elevated by a black DLC case that sharpens the contrast. The result is a combination of contemporary design, artisanal techniques and jewellery aesthetics.
The Owner’s Vision
The owner came to Alter with the desire to reimagine a watch as a modern piece of jewelry. After considering several options from his collection, he chose this iconic watch because of its simple, balanced design. Since he and his wife were already wearing it, it became the ideal base for a project they could share. They had long admired the precision of rainbow-setting techniques but wanted a sharper, more architectural result, anchored by the depth of black. Their vision was clear: to create a watch that would embody restraint and exuberance, with black serving as a frame for color.
The Dialogue of Crafts
This project unites contemporary design, horological tradition, and jewelry aesthetics through a coordinated sequence of crafts. Watchmakers dismantled, serviced, and reassembled the movement; jewelers restored and defined the metal surfaces; coating specialists applied the DLC treatment; and gem setters executed the full setting under magnification, guided by gemologists responsible for stone selection and grading. Each discipline operates within strict tolerances to shape a coherent, technically balanced piece rooted in Swiss artisanal expertise.
Gemstone Sourcing and Calibration
The bezel and dial are adorned with natural gemstones sourced through ethical supply chains. Selected at rough stage for colour, clarity and consistency, the stones were colour-matched and sorted within tight hue windows to form a continuous rainbow. They were then precision-cut and calibrated to watchmaking tolerances down to 0.01 mm. Each batch was quality-checked for symmetry, polish and dimensional repeatability to ensure reliable seating during the setting process. Full traceability was maintained from the origin of the stones to their finished state.
From Gem Origins to Setting
The chromatic composition brings together sapphires From Madagascar and Sri Lanka, tsavorites from Tanzania, rubies from Mozambique, and tourmalines from Brazil. The dial is set with 230 gemstones totaling 6.8 carats, while the bezel features 46 gemstones for a total of 3.4 carats. Each stone was set by hand using traditional pavé-setting techniques, with seat depth and metal tension adjusted to accommodate differences in hardness, ensuring stability, consistent light reflection and chromatic continuity across both surfaces.
Foundations of the transformation
The first step was to dismantle the watch entirely and carry out a complete service of the movement. Each component was then prepared for customisation. The steel surfaces were restored and refined by hand, alternating between brushed and polished textures. The dial and bezel, however, were specially manufactured to allow for setting. These elements formed the basis for the subsequent black DLC coating and gem-setting work.
Full Stones Setting
The full setting was carried out by a master gem-setter over nearly 120 hours of bench work. Using hand-made gravers, beading tools and binocular magnification, each stone was set individually within micrometric tolerances. Pressure and seat depth were adjusted stone by stone, as hardness varies between sapphires, tsavorites, rubies and tourmalines, increasing the risk of chipping. The margin for error is measured in microns. The dial features 230 stones, with 46 additional stones set on the bezel, all aligned to preserve chromatic harmony.
Black DLC treatment
The entire case has been coated in diamond-like carbon (DLC). This ultra-thin layer of carbon, only 2 to 4 microns thick, was applied in a vacuum at controlled temperatures between 200 and 300°C. The process produces a deep, uniform black colour that is highly resistant to wear. Light is absorbed by brushed surfaces and reflected by polished ones. The result is a perfect backdrop for the rainbow of gemstones, a monochrome architecture that enhances their brilliance.
Each creation by Alter Geneva is carried out on a personal watch provided by a client. These works are independent and are neither produced, approved, nor guaranteed by the original manufacturers. They are strictly intended for private use, with no commercial purpose.
- REFERENCE116400
- MATERIALSTAINLESS STEEL
- FINISH BRUSHED AND GLOSSY
- CASE BLACK DLC COATING
- HANDS AND INDEXES BLACK HAND-PAINTED WITHOUT LUMEN
- GEMSsapphires, tsavorites, rubies and tourmalines
- DIALPAVED WITH 230 STONES, TOTALING 6.8 CARATS
- BEZELPAVED WITH 46 STONES, TOTALING 3.4 CARATS
Alter Geneva carries out each creation on a personal watch provided by a client. These works are independent and are not produced, approved, or guaranteed by the original manufacturers. Since these modifications may affect the brand warranty, Alter provides its own warranty. All creations are strictly intended for private use and have no commercial purpose.